Counting Apricots and Counting on Change

Thursday last day of May 2007 - 3:30 p.m.
Another rainy day here in southwest France, mid 60's to 70's outside with a light breeze.
Most of the "votes" from my survey indicate a preference for the continuous format, and I am happy to provide. I will warn you though, I get a little political today. Quiche last night with spinach, and a touch of ham/bacon? Not sure, so read on....









I am starstruck every time I enter the local SHOPI, it is a small store by USA standards, but with a good selection of everything I need. Some American items seem unavailable; cottage cheese or ricotta cheese, for example, and no cheeses look quite like cheddar. Bacon seems to take strange packaging; either small chopped pieces, or in packages as "Jambon" (ham), and usually smoked but not quite the color of ham, and not quite the color of bacon. Chocolates of all types of sizes and colors, with up to 80% dark cocoa/chocolate, and M&M's sit nearby in easily recognizable packages. I could easily spend an hour in the store, "reading" labels and comprehending maybe 20%, maybe 50%, maybe more. I wandered around the laundry soaps, amused that it is a universal marketing ploy to present this type of soap in either bright blue or orange plastic bottles, with brightly-colored labels offering all types of magical properties. The soap I purchased was on a whim based on the name; "Le Chat" (cat) with a red cat's cartoon face on the front. I like cats, although I'm unsure how they get laundry cleaner.









The language difficulties make me think of how foreigners to USA must feel overwhelmed by the choices in our grocery stores. I've been in line in USA when the person ahead of me does not speak English, and is trying to communicate with the cashier. Do they understand the cashier is describing the special of the day, or asking for coupons or "store discount card"? I know I have been nervous when the cashiers here, ask me questions in a language I do not understand. I also remember looking at books a month or so ago at my local library, and being aware of a mother with two children entering the library. The eldest daughter asked the librarian for the "Spanish language books", an area around the corner from where I stood, and I did not know it existed. I walked over after the family had left, and was disappointed in the library/city/government for the small area of only one shelf that offered limited choices for someone who probably did not read English very well. With what little Spanish I can read, the choices were lousy. Then I realized I should not be angry at the library, a struggling institution limited by taxpayer's dollars for every book they put on the shelf. I am angry at myself - for not being aware of others who also may be nervous about entering a foreign-language business. This person wanted to be part of the community by utilizing the same library as her children, but with limited choices may not return for choices for herself. <<<>>>
Here I am using children's books and menus, and listening to foreign-language radio to try to grasp as much as I can. I am nervous every time I interact with someone "of the town", but I'm getting better. I requested fresh fruit and vegetables at the farmer's market today and the farmers did not "correct" my pronunciations this week, although one laughed with me, as I tried to hold up the proper fingers (counting with thumb first, then index, then middle, then ring finger - but no pinkie!), to indicate only four apricots. And I understood the small amount of money he requested -offering the correct combination of coins needed.










I am struggling here, and I am struggling with how to make opportunities better when I get back; where my home is, where my grocery store is, and where the library where I grew up is.
Wherever you are, enjoy the knowledge you possess and be charitable to those who do not yet understand the traditions or language of your land.
M

Surveys, Burros and Baking

Sunday, 10 pm - was a cold, wet, windy day. Walked in the blowing rain to SHOPI for a few necessities, but had to check the French dictionary before setting out - trying to bake today, and wasn't sure how to translate baking powder "levure", baking soda"bicarbonate", or cinnamon, "cannelle". J created a wonderful honey cake, and we shared it with the housemates. Everyone was hibernating in their rooms - trying to stay warm & cozy.








Yesterday we went for a walk in a new direction, and found a new friend. One of the instructors knows his name, and that he likes carrots, so I saved a few from our Sunday night vegetable soup for my new furry friend.








Want to take a survey as I finish up my first month of blogging: Am considering a single-page format (a page per day), instead of one continuous long line of entries, but not sure if my "subscribers" read the most recent day, and don't bother going back over "old" entries. Please leave a comment before June 1st - and let me know - a page a day, or a continuous "stream" of blogs - your votes count!

What To Eat

I though you might enjoy some menu descriptions: Got out two of our French/English dictionaries and translated a few menus. First, from Pizza Truck; "jambon blanc"= white ham, "champignons" = mushrooms, "poivrons" = sweet peppers, "saucisson sec" = salami, "merguez"= red sausage, "andouillette" = pork tripe, "lardons" = bacon, "magrets de canard fume" = smoked duck breast, the "quatre fromage/fromagere" = 4-cheese/5 cheese combination - all flavorful, and some stinky! "Ananas" = pineapple, "pommes de terre" = potatoes, "oeuf" = egg, "saumon" = salmon, "thon" = tuna, and "miettes de surimi et de crabe, ecrevisses, crevettes" = crabmeat, crawfish, and shrimp.
Sorry - but I'm going for the (safe) quatre fromage again tonight.



At the river view restaurant the menu includes simple pizzas, along with; "tartare frite" = raw chopped steak with french fries, "escalope de Volaille Normande" = baked turkey breast with white sauce, "choucroute de la Mer" = sauerkraut & fish, "fondue Bourguignonne" = hot burgundy-based sauce with onion, mushroom, bacon, and shallots - with beef to dip/cook in the sauce, and to finish; "hache a cheval" = ground horsemeat, and "foie gras maison" = house specialty - fatted goose or duck liver pate.

I'm not sure if these descriptions made you hungry or not, but there are no words to describe the tastes or smells of these foods that have been around for hundreds (if not thousands) of years in this region. I also appreciate that the food is unbelievably fresh - most items are from the region, or within a few hours drive of this village - with no added hormones, preservatives, or additives; everything just tastes pure...

I apologize in advance for any mis-spellings - I'm sure some of my classmates at Alliance Francaise in Chicago will find some food that was not spelled correctly. Pardon!
M

Palm Trees and Places to Dismount

Farmer's Market was amazing this morning, cruised in while they were still setting up: A booth of farm fresh eggs (that will need to be washed before use), and new honey. Three to four long lines of tables with fresh produce; covering everything from pomme terre (potatoes), to tiny radishes, to fragrant fruits of all colors and scents, 7-8 varieties of lettuce/spinach/other greens, perfectly-formed white mushrooms and tomatoes still on the vine, and meat! Two separate booths with fresh meat and fish (we ARE only ~2 hours from the sea here), and snails still wiggling in their shells. Another table; several kinds of strange cylindrical cheeses, dusted (I believe) with ash - don't ask me why - it is the tradition of the makers. And perfect flowers - a spectrum of colors and sizes and shapes ready for window boxes and garden walls. Yes, there will be photos of this splendor in a future blog; at this point I want to improve my conversational skills to the point that I will be encouraged to photograph the wares with the provider also at the booth.
Now on to "what's going on here...?" Some photos taken along our way: #1: Although I have yet to see a horse parked anywhere, there are frequent reminders of how to park when you dismount. #2 Amazing gardens surrounding the Angers Castle - the castle itself is in disrepair, and you have to look over the 4' wall to see down into to garden, but where is the king who ordered all this? #3 Speaking of kings and queens, Although Madame Royale did not win the election, there are still many in the region who do not wish to remove her posters along the streets. #4 The final "strange" of the day - lizards or chameleons scurry along by many of the palm trees in town, maybe that explains the rocky/sandy soil - we live near a beach!
Beautiful day here, I sunburned my toes reclining on the terrace.
M

Blue Skies and New Babies

10:45 pm - was a good day. Talked with Sherry at home - she seemed surprised I would call. It is always good to hear (or read) a voice from home. Just corresponded with our niece, she has a great blog spot for her son, and expecting another child in June, whew! The day was gorgeous today; light breezes, warm, sunny, and leisurely. Took some photos of the well-maintained (and less maintained) buildings in and near one of the main squares of the village - post office, hotel, notary, etc. Also added a few shots of other sights around the school onto my album. Had dinner at the pub; steak/frite (steak and fries) - J ate the steak and we split the fries, then chocolate mousse for dessert, ahhhhh this is the life. Hope the day wherever you are is as blue and sunny as it was here. Farmer's market tomorrow morning, so I should get to sleep so I can rise with the roosters.
M

Porcelain Flowers and French Flower Shops

Tuesday, 8:30 pm - the sun does not set until 9:30 to 10 pm. J and I wandered down to the local cemetery, and I am intrigued by the china/porcelain flower arrangements that decorate the graves.

This cemetery still in use, evident by 1-2 fresh graves. Red pea gravel/or crushed rose quartz (?) covers the ground and almost every grave is clearly designated with stone borders of about 2-4" tall.






All graves have numerous crucifixes, and usually have 2 or more of
these porcelain flower arrangements,
even "baskets" are formed
from this material. A few USA friends are hopeful for
French views of these historical artworks. I hope this suffices.

I am determined to visit most of the commercial businesses this week - it forces me to try to utilize the language. I visited a flower shop this morning, looking for a small vase, and between the shopkeeper who did not speak English, and me, who hasn't "much" French, we got the job done, I was even able to ask the shop-cat's name, "Caramel". I'm sure one of my future blogs will cover all the four-legged occupants of this small village, but that will be at a later date.
Tonight? Tomato soup, salad, and French wheat baguette with chevre (goat) cheese.
Have a great day.
M

Pain au chocolat

Monday evening; enjoying the low sun over the garden balcony. This afternoon I was pleased to see children enjoying swim lessons in the local pool, and wandered down to "see how it is done in France". I am still a certified lifeguard (American Red Cross - since 1978!), and swim lessons here look pretty much the same as USA, but thankfully no "Marco Polo" was played today. The pool must be heated, the evenings here have been much too cool and rainy for a non-heated pool to be utilized. Even standing on the outside of the pool gate, the chlorine smelled inviting (you have to be a swim-nut to understand). Perhaps I'll try to speak to the person in charge of the pool to see if I could volunteer - hand out equipment, sweep the deck, give out band-aids, the usual. Talked with our house sitter (L) this morning, and I didn't even wake her up! It is hard to wait until almost 4 pm here, in order not to call someone before sunrise. The cat and the house are doing well, and the cat is learning yoga, or at least learning how to interrupt someone else performing yoga. A good dinner of fresh green beans; toasted with a small amount of shallots/onions, some re-heated rotini with off-the-vine tomato sauce, and to finish? "Pain au Chocolat" (bread with chocolate baked inside) - better for breakfast but, what the heck?

Rainy Sunday

5:20 pm, and it is still a little rainy outside. It was cool and blustery with the rain hanging around all day today. Learning the ropes with steam heat - radiators are pretty picky. Just returned from a French film - all about parenting and the struggles of raising preteens, in a G-rated format. It was a cute film, and struggling with kids seems to be universal. Will be joining J in a few minutes at another welcome party hosted by the school. Friday night we met at Cafe Calimero, a new pub that recently opened under new owners. The French barkeep was keeping with the whole French-style; cigarette with ash dangling from the corner of his mouth throughout his pouring another draft beer. They had good-looking steak/frite; grilled steak with a side of fries, and served with mayo on the side - did not try them, but they smelled pretty good.
Photo of the day: Wet steps leading up from the garden, covered in ferns and tiny wildflowers, with white roses curling their way along the railing.
Hope the weather wherever you are, is nice and sunny!

French Pizza Saturday Night

Saturdays in the village the "Pizza truck" comes to
town, and we were happy to taste it! (Pizza Truck" visits other villages on 3 other nights of the week - Offerings? Everything from a "quatre fromage" (pronounced cat-r frohhhmaggg) = 4-cheese, to items such as "escagole" also known as escargo = snail, to something that J turned green just thinking about; "fermiere" with duck, tomatoes, mozzarella, tomato sauce and poultry entrails! The four cheese was absolutely delicious, and, as you can see, I fell off the carbonated beverage wagon and ordered some orange soda to go along. The Pizza Truck only visits our village on Saturdays. Sorry - no website to order ahead.

Went for a walk with J through the village, took a nice shot of the front of our apartment building (our apartment is in the back), a shot of one of the average streets looking down toward one of the rivers that surrounds the town, and finally a nice shot of a "Roman bridge", not sure if the sign is accurate, but we'll take their word for it. Also wandered along the swimming pool, is filled and looks good - but I'm sure the temperature is freezing - will be open early June. Have heard back from our international phone company - they will be sending a replacement phone for our dud - good! I am up to #6 in my cheese journal - I'm sure within a few weeks I'll have enough for part of a blog.

First Pool View

Arrived in the small south-western French town that is our main destination for J's studies. The apartment and the views out the windows are beautiful. A winding stone staircase leads down to the shared garden, overlooking a green valley, and within view? The local outdoor swimming pool, less than a 1/4 mile away! Are disappointed to know that our international phone, purchased in USA is the one item we brought that was a waste of space - may contact the supplier to correct the problem - or not; have enjoyed being "unconnected", and will continue to enjoy the sensation. Enjoy our view out the bedroom - far off in the distance is the pool.

In France

In France: The view of the farmlands from the plane prior to landing; greener than anything currently in the midwest. Rude French people? - NO! Everyone we came into contact with was friendly and eager to help, in fact we were mistaken for being a French couple at the London airport by an elderly French couple who asked for assistance, after we had greeted them earlier with a polite "bonjour", and then had to explain "No, parlez vous Englaise"? Luckily they did "parle" English, and chuckled about the mistake. Crazy drivers? I'm guessing there is a motorcycle helmet law in France - as those bikers will weave through traffic- driving ON the dotted white division lines in 3-4 lanes of traffic, and the motorcycle cops do the same! We've checked into a lovely hotel after getting an impromptu tour from a friendly cabbie - saw Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and some yummy-looking open-air fruit/vegetable markets. I hope today's note goes through well - as the internet hookup we've attached to only offers FRENCH prompts for me to get through. Viva la France!

Flying the Friendly(?) Skies

Made it to the airport with 2 carry-ons and two checked bags - all under the maximum weight!
First flight out at 5:30, Michigan at 8 pm, and London to Paris by tomorrow afternoon.
Older couple in line behind us while we checked in - with the questions they had about flying - maybe the airport should consider a passenger liaison to assist with questions/concerns prior to checking in. The two behind us had questions about the number of bags allowed, how to use the kiosk, what "overbooked" meant on the posting for their flight, all the way down to "are you two flying to South Carolina too?" Meanwhile an elderly lady with her (grand)daughter was trying to check in ahead of us, but she had no driver's license, no photo ID, and the (grand)daughter was getting loud and frustrated. I plan to utilize the quiet , polite and helpful personality to get to my final destination. Wish us luck!
Bon Voyage.

Mickey the cat

Yes! We can put photos on this thing. First things first - the recently unfurled ferns in the backyard, our home, and our cat. One more going away party, and maybe some last minute USA photos before we get to France.

Ready

I'm a list person - over the past 2 months there have been lists all over my house, my car, and my desk at work. But lately, as I get closer and closer to leaving USA, and hopefully, leading a much simpler existence in France, the lists are dwindling. I've found myself finding lists, reading them quickly, and throwing them away. I had a list of things to pack, I've stopped looking at it - everything is ready in a plastic tub for rapid transport into a carry-on suitcase. I have two small lists I carry with me; one for last minute items to purchase or complete, and one blank card for "other ideas". The card has been blank for more than a week, and I've decided it is an indication I am ready, or my mind is empty, or both. I think I'm mellowing. We hope to add some photos to the blog before we depart - Check on us.

"Don't ever wait"

We're at our favorite coffee cafe (hmmm, and I don't even drink coffee), had a great time at the party hosted by Lisa at Le Meduse - a cozy little cafe in downtown Rock Island. 7 days and counting down until we breeze into Europe. Plan to practice pack this afternoon, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! While we were chatting with some of our friends yesterday, I was also enchanted to meet two ladies who came to the cafe for a late afternoon coffee, and they stopped to chat with me prior to leaving. They indicated they were both widows, asked about the party theme at the cafe, and instructed me "no question, you go, have as much fun as possible, don't hold back, keep stretching to experience new things in new places, don't ever WAIT".
That's pretty much my theme this week.

Pop Tarts

Enjoyed a night out with the T/E.M. staff Friday - with rock climbing, laser tag, and a cart race. All that kept "racing" through my mind was LeMans, LeMans, LeMans... It was a great B-day for Dawn , but too bad Mike got the Yugo! I am looking forward to exploring new lands and a different culture in less than 2 weeks! Is it crazy to "practice pack" this early? Will I miss pop tarts, wrestling with our cat, paying for gas, setting our alarm clock, the English language, and strolling through libraries; picking up 4-5 new books along the way? Or will I be like a new sponge - my only job to absorb and work through everything that is thrown at us over the next 110 days? I'm betting on cleaning up.

Blooming

"Traveller's Joy" is a small blooming wildflower from Southern Europe/Africa. The plant is found "climbing fences and growing along roadsides", much like what we will be doing in a few weeks, and thus the title.
Currently preparing for 110 days in France, and finishing last minute details before the trip.
Posts to look forward to...
Travel - fun and challenges - looking forward to CDG airport, Paris.
Food - cheese, wine, fresh fruit and vegetables, need I go on?
Language - the one I know; English, and the languages we will be struggling with; French/Italian/Spanish, and maybe British!
ART - frequent updates of J's paintings while at the school, and maybe my sketches along the way.
Yet to meet - classmates, residents, landlords, instructors, animals, and crazy drivers.
Photos - hopefully nothing from within the walls of a French prison...

Let me know what you think, no profanity please!
M

A Traveller's Joy

Welcome to my blog - will be travelling to France soon, and am finishing last minute plans.
Please check back for frequent updates - about food (cheese!), artworks in progress, and stumbling through the culture shock that will be Europe.

As for my blog title:
"Traveller's Joy" clematis vitalba: Wildflower found throughout southwest Europe/Africa. Used for medicinal purposes and found "climbing and covering" the roadsides of Europe.